The Furniture Stripping Process

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What happens to a piece of furniture when it comes in for stripping? The following steps are followed for items being stripped using our immersion process. The hand stripping process will be outlined afterwards.

1) Disassembly

For instance, from a dining table we would remove the legs, extension slides and metal hardware. From a dresser or a desk we would remove handles or knobs, hinges, metal drawer runners or guides and removable back panels. From china cabinets and curios we would also remove glass windows and mirrors. All upholstered sections must be removed. We disassemble because we want to protect metal pieces from rusting, we want to eliminate pockets where stripping fluids can become trapped, and we want to be able to treat non-wood components separately whenever possible. It is also a help to break large items down into sections which makes the stripping process more manageable and successful.

2) Finish removal

Items then are placed in a tank filled with 110 to 140 gallons of an industrial strength paint and finish remover. For large items that cannot be disassembled, items are placed on a table and coated with the same material. The stripper will soften the finish and make it easer to scrape and scrub off, but rarely will simply wash the finish off without additional effort. Depending on the tenacity of the finish and the size and shape of the piece, this step could take minutes to hours.

3) First rinse

After allowing the stripping liquid to drain off the piece back into the tank, each piece is then carefully rinsed with a high pressure washer. This removes the remaining stripper and also pulls out some of the finish lodged in the pores of the wood. In truth this is more an additional finish removal step than a simple rinse.

4) First cleaning tank

This tank is filled with a weak solution of an industrial cleaner and is heated to 115• to increase the effectiveness of the liquid. The primary benefit from a dip in this tank is to remove any remaining stripping residue. Surface pigments and dirt are also removed. Most items remain in this tank for a timed 30 second dip. Some finishes and paints are actually more effectively removed in this solution and may proceed through a dip-scrub-dip cycle in this step.

5) Second rinse

The cleaning solution remains active as long as it is on the piece so it must be rinsed off. Again, we use a high pressure washer but this time in a more literally rinsing action.

6) Second cleaning tank

This tank is filled with a weak solution of a chemical designed as a deck and fence cleaner. A timed 30 second dip in this tank not only removes water borne mineral stains but also brightens and neutralizes the wood. Woods with high tannin content such as oak may be left in this tank longer to draw out the tannins and ensure a uniform natural appearance.

7) The final step is to remove any surface liquids from the piece. Squeegees, towels and a heated blower may all be used in this step. It is then allowed to dry and reach equilibrium with the atmospheric moisture. Once the piece is fully dry it can be reassembled, repaired or prepped for finishing, depending on the path it is on.

The process of hand stripping is similar but simpler. We use a thicker formulation of the same industrial paint and finish remover. Instead of dipping the item into the stripper we paint the stripper onto the piece a section at a time. The stripper is allowed to work for 3 -5 minutes and then scraped or scrubbed off. A second application of stripper is then made and the surface is scrubbed with steel wool again. Next it is scrubbed with steel wool dipped in acetone and finally wiped down with acetone and a cloth. Does that sound simple? Try it yourself and you may understand why nearly every week people bring in things for us to strip that they have labored to hand strip and have given up ever completing satisfactorily. Those people always are surprised how much cleaner our immersion stripping got their piece than their best effort and how quickly we were able to complete the job.

Immersion stripping yields a more thoroughly clean result, so why hand strip? Here are some reasons:

The item is constructed with sections made from composite wood materials (particle board, mdf, etc). Such materials are likely to swell if immersed.
The item is too large to fit into the immersion tanks, such as a conference table.
The item is upholstered and the upholstery does not need to be removed.
Prejudice, you are just convinced it is better than immersion stripping. We address some of the typical concerns underlying this prejudice on our FAQs page.

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